Nikon D800: Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 G AF-S vs. Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 AF

En la siguiente comparativa se ha utilizado imágenes tomadas con una Nikon D800 utilizando un objetivoNikkor 50mm f/1.8 G AF-S y un Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 AF (made in Japan). Las imágenes corresponden a archivos jpg sin ningún tipo de procesado posterior.

50mm G AF-S 

 

50mm AF

 50mm G AF-S               50mm G AF-S (detalle)

 

50mm AF           50mm AF (detalle)

 50mm G AF-S (foto y detalle)

 50mm AF (foto y detalle)

 50mm G AF-S (foto y detalle)

 50mm AF (foto y detalle)

Polarizador Gold and Blue

Ejemplo del efecto conseguido con el Polarizador Gold N Blue de Singhray,

Sin polarizador

Con Polarizador

Con polarizador G&B (into the blue)

Con polarizador G&B (into the gold)

300 mm F4 AF-S ED + TC1.7EII AF-S

Al utilizar un TC1.7EII con el tele 300mm F4 obtenemos una focal de 510mm, aunque la apertura mínima pasa a ser F 6.7.

En las imágenes siguientes se puede comparar el efecto producido al introducir el TC (imágenes tomadas con una D800).

1. Allium

300 mm (sin recortar ni editar)

300 mm + TC1.7 (sin recortar ni editar)

2. Pelophylax perezi

 300 mm + TC1.7 (sin recortar ni editar)

recorte de la imagen anterior

Nikon D800 : Samyang 14mm vs Nikkor 14-24 AF-S 2.8 G

EN la siguiente comparativa se ha utilizado imágenes tomadas con una Nikon D800 utilizando un objetivo Samyang 14mm y un Nikkor 14-24. Las imágenes corresponden a archivos jpg sin ningún tipo de procesado posterior.

                                     Samyang  1/400 - f8                                         Nikon 1/400 - f8 (14mm)

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 Samyang  1/200 - f2.8

 Nikon  1/200 - f2.8 (14 mm)

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 Samyang  1/50 - f2.8

  

  Nikon  1/50 - f2.8 (14 mm)

 Detalle de la imagen anterior

 Samyang

  Nikkon

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   Samyang  1/600 - f2.8

  Nikon  1/600 - f2.8 (14 mm)

Nikon D800 + Nikkor 180mm 2.8

Imágenes tomadas con la D800 y un teleobjetivo Nikkor 180mm f2.8 ED AF

(Se puede obtener una vista ampliada pinchando sobre la imágen)


Rosa

 ISO 800, f 2.8, 1/600

 Recorte de la imágen

Cerilla

La siguiente imagen se ha tomado con un tubo extensión junto con el 180.

ISO 6400, f 2.8, 1/500

Nikon D800 + Nikkor 28-70 AF-D 3.5-4.5

Hola os dejo algunas imágenes obtenidas con una D800 y un Nikkor 28-70 AFD 3.5-4.5 de segunda mano. Las imágenes que se muestran a continuación no han sido manipulados/reveladas, únicamente se han convertido de RAW a JPG.

Mi intención es que veáis que, si bien con un Nikkor 24-70 mm f/2.8 G ED AF-S  la calidad de los resultados obtenidos sería sin duda superior, el 28-70 es un buen objetivo con una muy buena relación calidad/precio (80 EUR con transporte incluido).

(Se puede obtener una vista ampliada pinchando sobre la imágen) 

1.- Flor de almendro

1/640  f4.5  ISO200  62mm

recorte de la flor que aparece en la parte central superior

2. Gato

1/400  f4.2  ISO800  60mm

Recorte de la cara del gato (en el recorte he subido un poco la saturación)

3. Lápices

1/1600  f4.5  ISO200  70mm

recorte de la parte central

4. Eiffel

5. Epicerie du Marais

Nikkor 80-200 AFD + TC 1.7E II

La primera imágen esta tomada utilizando el zoom Nikkor 80-200 AFD a 200mm montado en una D800.

 

Esta otra imágen está tomada con el  zoom Nikkor 80-200 AFD a 200mm junto con el TC 17E II, enfocando en modo manual (no es posible utilizar AF)

No se ha recortado ninguna de las dos imágenes

FILTRO HAIDA ND 1000

Precio del Filtro (77mm) : 43.90 EUR + 3 EUR gastos de envio

I. Fotografía de referencia (sin filtro)

II. Fotografia tomada con el filtro Haida ND 1000 Pro II MC

III. Fotografia anterior con un ajuste de tono

Doble Tone Mapping

http://caughtinpixels.com/category/processing-tips/double-tone-mapped-hdr/

Links Astrofotografia

Fotografiar la via lactea

http://www.davemorrowphotography.com/p/tutorial-shooting-night-sky.html



Apilar fotografies

http://garyluhm.net/focus-stacking/

LLuna

How to Photograph the Moon

http://photographylife.com/how-to-photograph-moon

To photograph just the moon by itself, without any objects in the foreground, you will need a long telephoto lens like explained above to magnify the moon and try to fill as much of the frame as possible. Even with a good telephoto lens setup though, you will most likely be cropping the final image, simply because only a telescope would be able to provide enough magnification to fill the entire frame. With your telephoto lens mounted in your camera, secure it on a tripod and point at the moon. Make sure that your tripod is good and stable enough to accommodate and hold your lens and your camera. When it comes to shutter speed, aperture and ISO, here is what I recommend for general use:

1. Camera Mode: Set your camera mode to full Manual Mode.
2. ISO: Set your ISO to 100 if you have a Canon DSLR and to 200 if you have a Nikon DSLR (basically, whatever base ISO you have in your camera). For most other brands, the base ISO is also 100. If you have a point and shoot camera, see if you can find a menu setting to set your ISO to 100. Make sure “Auto ISO” is turned Off.
3. Aperture: Set your aperture to f/11.
4. Shutter Speed: Set your shutter speed to 1/125 on cameras with base ISO 100, and to 1/250 on Nikon DSLRs with base ISO 200.
5. Lens Focus: Set your lens to manual focus (either through a switch on the lens or on the camera) and set your focus to infinity. Be careful while setting the focus to infinity, as some lenses allow focusing beyond infinity. On more advanced DSLRs such as Nikon D300, there is a handy feature called “live-view with contrast detect”, which can accurately acquire focus on distant objects. I have used it many times for my moon photography and it works great! If you do not have such a feature in your camera, then try setting your lens to the center of the infinity sign, then take a picture and see if it came out sharp by zooming in the rear LCD of the camera.

How to capture the color of the Moon

http://www.atalaia.org/filipe/moon/colorofthemoon.htm

The "hard way" is:

To stack...!!

Stack and stack and stack! doing it by hand is hard work and takes a lot of time, but in 3 megapixel images it is the best way to do it, and mixing evenly as many images you can you will reduce the noise to almost none and get some color detail from the image you're processing. And after that you can just apply the "easy way"(without the gaussian blur), and sharpen the luminance channel a bit, as you have much color information and very little noise, but I advise you to work in 16-bit/channel.

If you're using a webcam to capture the images and a program like Registax to process them, then your job is almost done, but you must process in color and it is best if you save the file as a 16-bit TIFF. Then all you have to do is to equalize the image and increase the saturation etc...

Advise in capturing images for processing:

• Allways use a low ISO value
• Never use gain.
• Try to keep the moon in the midtones, never to bright or too dark.
• Use daylight white balance
• Do not use high compression in JPEG images

 

Modificar Nikon TC-17E (TC-14 o TC-20)

El següent està copiat de :

http://nikonpages.heymanphotography.com/tcmod/index.html

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Modification of TC14E, TC17E or TC20E

Last update date: Jun 15^th, 2012

Contents

1. Disclaimer
2. Purpose of this modification
3. Limitations
4. Modification details
5. Q&A
6. More questions?

Disclaimer

This modification will void your warranty. Although this is a very easy and straighforward modification, proceed at own risk!
OK, let's say that again:
This modification will void your warranty. Although this is a very easy and straighforward modification, proceed at own risk! It might be a good idea to check out the forums!

Purpose of this modification

• TC14E modification: to allow stacking TC14E with TC20E for a total multiplication factor of 2.8x
• TC17E modification: to allow stacking TC17E with TC20E for a total multiplication factor of 3.4x
• TC14E/TC17E/TC20E modification: to allow use of non AF-I/AF-S telelenses/telezooms

Notes:

• this applies to both the TCxxE and the TCxxE II teleconverters
• Light metering is maintained, however aperture shown will be incorrect, e.g. TC14E + TC20E with a f2.8 telelens will show f5.6 as maximum aperture instead of f8. No compensation is necessary. This applies to all lenses, not just AF-I/AF-S lenses.
• Stacking sequence is as follows: Camera - (TC14E or TC17E) - TC20E - lens (Reason: with reverse TC sequence, TC20E front element would touch TC14E/TC17E rear element, so that sequence doesn't work)

Limitations

• TC14E cannot physically be stacked with TC17E
• TC14E cannot physically be stacked with another TC14E
• TC17E cannot physically be stacked with another TC17E
• TC17E stacked with TC20E with AF-I or AF-S lens cannot be used in AF-mode (f2.8 becomes about f9)
• TC14E stacked with TC20E with AF-I or AF-S lens reaches limit of AF: only works well in ample light
• none of these teleconverters will maintain AF with non AF-I/AF-S lenses since there is no mechanical AF transfer through these teleconverters
• don't try to mount non telelenses/telezooms on these converters. E.g. with a 28-70mm AF-S f2.8 lens the rear lens element will hit the teleconverter front element around the 35mm setting if you zoom out. Not good!

Modification details

1. The picture below shows you the converter before modification (actually the one you see is the TC20E, because my TC14E is already modified...).
   
   
   
   
2. Unscrew the metal ring, by unscrewing the 4 screws (see below for some more info on the screws). The screws have locking compound on their threads, so don't worry if you have to use a lot of force. Use a good screwdriver with a big enough handle so you can apply the necessary force without stripping the screws. If possible, apply 60 seconds of heat from the tip of a soldering iron to help free each screw. The idea is to heat them to about 140 degrees Fahrenheit (60 degrees Celcius).
   Note: Most likely, the screws on your TC are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screws. They differ from P
   
   

   How to capture the color of the Moon

   hillips screws in that the slots are straight, vs. becoming wider towards the center as in Phillips screws. Ideally, you should use a JIS #0 screwdriver, however if you cannot find a shop that sells these, I've had good luck with a 3/32" Phillips screwdriver (the more a Phillips screwdriver wears out, the closer it becomes to being a JIS screwdriver!). Here's one US online shop that sells them: RJR Cool Tools (http://www.rjrcooltools.com/jis.cfm) (Disclaimer: I have never bought from this shop). One user reported that the screws that Nikon uses are Pozidriv screws. Pozidriv screws are cross slot screws which are straight cut, not tapered, vs. Phillips screws which are tapered. Make sure to check the screws on your TC and use the appropriate screwdriver. I would love to hear from you which screw type your TC has - just shoot me a quick email!
   
   
3. Once the screws are gone, you can take of the metal ring - simply lift it up (you might need to pull a couple of times to get it off). Watch out not to damage the thin metal sheet ring that lies just below the metal ring.
   Note: some TCs have three black gaskets outside the thin metal sheet ring - make sure they don't come out (or make sure to note their position so you can put them back correctly - see below).
   
   
4. Remove the little tab as shown in the picture below. You can file it off with a manual file, but it's much easier, quicker and cleaner to use a Dremel (or equivalent) tool. VERY IMPORTANT: make sure to you don't get any metal filings on the teleconverter, and thoroughly clean the ring after you're done. The last thing you want is scratches on your teleconverter glass!
   
   
   
   Ted Byrne posted some pictures and a nice video showing how he filed off the tab with a Dremel tool - check it out here.
   
   
5. If the gasket rings came out, and you're scratching your head on how to put them back in, this may help: there are 3 dark gasket rings, and the thin metal sheet ring mentioned above. The gasket rings all have parts on the outside that extend (wider parts, extending to the outside of the ring):
   • Ring 1 (on the left, with the red dot): going clockwise, a large 'flange', then immediately a very small one, then, approx. in the middle on the other side, a medium size flange
   • Ring 2 (in the middle, with the blue dot): going clockwise, a small flange, a large one, and in the middle on the other side, a very small one
   • Ring 3 (on the right, with the green dot): going clockwise, a small flange, a very large one, and a large one
     
     
     
     
   The rings go onto the TC in sequence: ring 1, ring 2, ring 3, then finally the metal sheet ring. For each of the rings, there's only one position that fits, so that should be easy. The picture below should help - it shows how to position each gasket ring when putting it back onto the teleconverter (simply match the red, blue and green dots):
   
   
   
   
6. Put the metal ring back in place, tighten the 4 screws, and you're all set!
   Note: optionally you can add some blue Locktite (removable) to the screw threads.
   
   
7. The result looks like this:
   
   
   
   

Q&A

Question	Answer
Do I really need to remove the metal ring from the TC to file off the tab?	Leaving the metal ring on the TC while filing off the tab is a recipe for disaster: you could inadvertently touch the TC lens element with your file/dremel and completely ruin it, or the metal filings could (and will) get in the TC mechanism or on the lens element and severely scratch not only the TC but potentially also the lens you mount on the TC. So, I guess that would make the answer 'Yes'!
So what's the purpose of that tab??	Well, I guess that's a question only Nikon can really answer. However, as far as I'm concerned, the only reason for that tab is to physically prevent non AF-I/AF-S lenses from being mounted on these TCs. Since these TCs don't have the screwdriver connection for the AF motor, Nikon really never intended them to be used on those lenses.
Does filing off the tab change/break anything as far as functioning of the TC with AF-I and AF-S lenses?	Not that I'm aware - I've been using a modified TC14E since 2000 and haven't had a single problem. There's absolutely no change in function when mounted on an AF-I or AF-S lens (I'm using the following lenses myself: 80-200mm f/2.8 AF-S, 300mm f/2.8 AF-I, 200-400mm f/4 AF-S VR).
Can I maintain AF with a modified TC14E or TC20E on e.g. a 80-200mm f2.8 AF-D or 300mm f4 AF (non AF-S)?	No. Only AF-S/AF-I lenses maintain AF (if the maximum aperture is f8 or better, and only in ample light on a high-end body). If you want to use a teleconverter on an AF-D lens, you should look into the Kenko Pro series of teleconverters
Can Sigma lenses be used with a modified TC?	I do not have any Sigma lenses myself, but users have reported the following: Sigma 70-200mm f2.8 EX HSM: does NOT work (rear lens element hits TC front element) Sigma 100-300mm f4 EX IF HSM: works OK with TC14E - at least 1 report of non-AF with a modified TC17E Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX IF HSM: works OK with TC14E - at least 2 reports of erratic AF behaviour or even non-AF with a modified TC17E and TC20E Sigma APO 120-300mm f2.8 EX DG HSM: at least 2 reports of hunting AF (TC14E II on D200 used by one user) and 1 report of no AF-lock at all (TC20E III on D3) Sigma 50-500mm f4-6.3 EX RF HSM: does NOT work Sigma 300-800mm f5.6 EX DG APO HSM: works OK with TC14E (user reported AF functional on D200) Sigma 500mm f4.5 EX APO HSM: works OK with TC14E - at least 1 report of erratic AF behaviour with a modified TC17E and TC20E Sigma 800mm f5.6 EX APO HSM: works OK (user reported AF functional on D100, D1, D1x, D2x) Sigma APO Macro 150mm f2.8 EX DG HSM: does NOT work Sigma APO Macro 180mm F3.5 EX IF HSM: works OK (user reported AF can be jittery) Note that aperture and focal length reported to the camera are not modified, so a f2.8 lens will show as f2.8 in the EXIF data, and the focal length reported will be the focal length of the lens without TC. No compensation necessary though.
When stacking TC's, do I need to following a specific sequence of mounting everything?	No, I have never noticed any difference or had any trouble, regardless of mounting sequence: Camera + TC1 then TC2 then lens, or TC1 + TC2 then camera then lens, etc.
Can I put a modified TCxxE on a Nikon 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G IF-ED AF-S VR DX, Nikon 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6G AF-S (VR or non-VR) or Nikon 55-200 f/4-5.6G AF-S (VR or non-VR) DX?	Short answer: No Long answer: the TC may physically fit - I don't know, I haven't tried. You'll probably have an issue with the front TC element bumping into the lens rear element on the short end of the lens. However, even if it does fit, you'll most likely be very disappointed with the result - these are fine lenses in their category, however a TC will lead to decreased contrast, decreased sharpness, etc. Also, using these lenses at the long end means you're at f/5.6. Add a TC14E and you're at an effective f/8, so autofocus is highly unlikely to work. So you're back to manual focus, which is not evident with a viewfinder as dark as you'll have at f/8, especially with today's focusing screens which are optimized for AF.
I have an old TC14B and an unmodified TC14E. Can I use the ring of the TC14B on the TC14E so I don't have to grind off the tab on the TC14E ring?	No, the ring from a TC14B will not mount on a TC14E. The rings are same size, but the ring from the E seats slightly differently into the TC body.

More questions?

Check out the forums and post your question if you can't find the anwswer in there!
You may also email me. I will update the Q&A section or add a forum topic for those questions that are of interest to everyone.