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Modification of TC14E, TC17E or TC20E
Last update date: Jun 15th, 2012Contents
Disclaimer
This modification will void your warranty. Although this is a very easy and straighforward modification, proceed at own risk!OK, let's say that again:
This modification will void your warranty. Although this is a very easy and straighforward modification, proceed at own risk! It might be a good idea to check out the forums!
Purpose of this modification
- TC14E modification: to allow stacking TC14E with TC20E for a total multiplication factor of 2.8x
- TC17E modification: to allow stacking TC17E with TC20E for a total multiplication factor of 3.4x
- TC14E/TC17E/TC20E modification: to allow use of non AF-I/AF-S telelenses/telezooms
- this applies to both the TCxxE and the TCxxE II teleconverters
- Light metering is maintained, however aperture shown will be incorrect, e.g. TC14E + TC20E with a f2.8 telelens will show f5.6 as maximum aperture instead of f8. No compensation is necessary. This applies to all lenses, not just AF-I/AF-S lenses.
- Stacking sequence is as follows: Camera - (TC14E or TC17E) - TC20E - lens (Reason: with reverse TC sequence, TC20E front element would touch TC14E/TC17E rear element, so that sequence doesn't work)
Limitations
- TC14E cannot physically be stacked with TC17E
- TC14E cannot physically be stacked with another TC14E
- TC17E cannot physically be stacked with another TC17E
- TC17E stacked with TC20E with AF-I or AF-S lens cannot be used in AF-mode (f2.8 becomes about f9)
- TC14E stacked with TC20E with AF-I or AF-S lens reaches limit of AF: only works well in ample light
- none of these teleconverters will maintain AF with non AF-I/AF-S lenses since there is no mechanical AF transfer through these teleconverters
- don't try to mount non telelenses/telezooms on these converters. E.g. with a 28-70mm AF-S f2.8 lens the rear lens element will hit the teleconverter front element around the 35mm setting if you zoom out. Not good!
Modification details
-
The picture below shows you the converter before modification (actually the one you
see is the TC20E, because my TC14E is already modified...).
- Unscrew the metal ring, by unscrewing the
4 screws (see below for some more info on the screws). The screws have
locking compound on their threads, so don't worry if
you have to use a lot of force. Use a good screwdriver with a big enough
handle so you can apply the necessary force without stripping the
screws. If possible, apply 60 seconds of heat from the tip of a
soldering iron to help free each screw. The idea is to heat them to
about 140 degrees Fahrenheit (60 degrees Celcius).
Note: Most likely, the screws on your TC are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screws. They differ from PHow to capture the color of the Moon
hillips screws in that the slots are straight, vs. becoming wider towards the center as in Phillips screws. Ideally, you should use a JIS #0 screwdriver, however if you cannot find a shop that sells these, I've had good luck with a 3/32" Phillips screwdriver (the more a Phillips screwdriver wears out, the closer it becomes to being a JIS screwdriver!). Here's one US online shop that sells them: RJR Cool Tools (http://www.rjrcooltools.com/jis.cfm) (Disclaimer: I have never bought from this shop). One user reported that the screws that Nikon uses are Pozidriv screws. Pozidriv screws are cross slot screws which are straight cut, not tapered, vs. Phillips screws which are tapered. Make sure to check the screws on your TC and use the appropriate screwdriver. I would love to hear from you which screw type your TC has - just shoot me a quick email!
- Once the screws are gone, you can take of the metal ring -
simply lift it up (you might need to pull a couple of times to get it
off). Watch out not to damage the thin metal sheet ring that lies just
below the metal ring.
Note: some TCs have three black gaskets outside the thin metal sheet ring - make sure they don't come out (or make sure to note their position so you can put them back correctly - see below).
- Remove the little tab as shown in the picture below. You can
file it off with a manual file, but it's much easier, quicker and
cleaner to use a Dremel (or equivalent) tool. VERY IMPORTANT: make sure
to you don't get any metal filings on the teleconverter, and thoroughly
clean the ring after you're done. The last thing you want is scratches
on your teleconverter glass!
Ted Byrne posted some pictures and a nice video showing how he filed off the tab with a Dremel tool - check it out here.
- If the gasket rings came out, and you're scratching your head
on how to put them back in, this may help: there are 3 dark gasket
rings, and the thin metal sheet ring mentioned above. The gasket rings
all have parts on the outside that extend (wider parts, extending to the
outside of the ring):
- Ring 1 (on the left, with the red dot): going clockwise, a large 'flange', then immediately a very small one, then, approx. in the middle on the other side, a medium size flange
- Ring 2 (in the middle, with the blue dot): going clockwise, a small flange, a large one, and in the middle on the other side, a very small one
- Ring 3 (on the right, with the green dot): going clockwise, a small flange, a very large one, and a large one
- Put the metal ring back in place, tighten the 4 screws, and you're all set!
Note: optionally you can add some blue Locktite (removable) to the screw threads.
- The result looks like this:
Q&A
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| Do I really need to remove the metal ring from the TC to file off the tab? | Leaving the metal ring on the TC while filing off the tab is a recipe for disaster: you could inadvertently touch the TC lens element with your file/dremel and completely ruin it, or the metal filings could (and will) get in the TC mechanism or on the lens element and severely scratch not only the TC but potentially also the lens you mount on the TC. So, I guess that would make the answer 'Yes'! |
| So what's the purpose of that tab?? | Well, I guess that's a question only Nikon can really answer. However, as far as I'm concerned, the only reason for that tab is to physically prevent non AF-I/AF-S lenses from being mounted on these TCs. Since these TCs don't have the screwdriver connection for the AF motor, Nikon really never intended them to be used on those lenses. |
| Does filing off the tab change/break anything as far as functioning of the TC with AF-I and AF-S lenses? | Not that I'm aware - I've been using a modified TC14E since 2000 and haven't had a single problem. There's absolutely no change in function when mounted on an AF-I or AF-S lens (I'm using the following lenses myself: 80-200mm f/2.8 AF-S, 300mm f/2.8 AF-I, 200-400mm f/4 AF-S VR). |
| Can I maintain AF with a modified TC14E or TC20E on e.g. a 80-200mm f2.8 AF-D or 300mm f4 AF (non AF-S)? | No. Only AF-S/AF-I lenses maintain AF (if the maximum aperture is f8 or better, and only in ample light on a high-end body). If you want to use a teleconverter on an AF-D lens, you should look into the Kenko Pro series of teleconverters |
| Can Sigma lenses be used with a modified TC? | I do not have any Sigma lenses myself, but users have reported the following:
|
| When stacking TC's, do I need to following a specific sequence of mounting everything? | No, I have never noticed any difference or had any trouble, regardless of mounting sequence: Camera + TC1 then TC2 then lens, or TC1 + TC2 then camera then lens, etc. |
| Can I put a modified TCxxE on a Nikon 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G IF-ED AF-S VR DX, Nikon 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6G AF-S (VR or non-VR) or Nikon 55-200 f/4-5.6G AF-S (VR or non-VR) DX? | Short answer: No Long answer: the TC may physically fit - I don't know, I haven't tried. You'll probably have an issue with the front TC element bumping into the lens rear element on the short end of the lens. However, even if it does fit, you'll most likely be very disappointed with the result - these are fine lenses in their category, however a TC will lead to decreased contrast, decreased sharpness, etc. Also, using these lenses at the long end means you're at f/5.6. Add a TC14E and you're at an effective f/8, so autofocus is highly unlikely to work. So you're back to manual focus, which is not evident with a viewfinder as dark as you'll have at f/8, especially with today's focusing screens which are optimized for AF. |
| I have an old TC14B and an unmodified TC14E. Can I use the ring of the TC14B on the TC14E so I don't have to grind off the tab on the TC14E ring? | No, the ring from a TC14B will not mount on a TC14E. The rings are same size, but the ring from the E seats slightly differently into the TC body. |
More questions?
Check out the forums and post your question if you can't find the anwswer in there!You may also email me. I will update the Q&A section or add a forum topic for those questions that are of interest to everyone.
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